For ‘advanced users’, here’s a pick of some newer pet supplies products & ideas. There are thousands upon thousands of products out there, so the round up here has targeted a few new ideas for doggie wellbeing and saftey.

Dog Collars

Safety Release Collars

Traditional collars are potentially dangerous – because they have a buckle, they will not undo if the collar becomes caught on something and cause strangulation injuries… New safety release design collars are finally available for dogs now, featuring buckles which ‘snap open’ if the collar is caught on anything.  This design of collar is already a hit with cat owners. We think they’re probably a good idea because dogs may go missing – without you around, your dog could get its collar snapped on a wire fence, branch, etc – away from people who could rescue him or her.

Anti Choke Collars

Another traditional product is ‘choke chains’, which pressurise the dog’s neck they try to pull forward. Although a staple product for many years in pet supply stores, the products can sometimes cause health problems and dogs may cough, gag or, well, choke. The next generation of products to replace them are anti choke harnesses. These designs avoid pressurising the dog’s neck. The pressure from traditional choke chains may aggravate glaucoma. Smaller dogs are particularly prone to collapsed tracheas due to the pressure from traditional choke chains. The newer designs are more like harnesses, which fit around the front legs and avoid the neck altogether. We think this is a brilliant idea, providing the design should not exert any pressure onto the chest or airways.

Collars are also available which exert pressure on the nose instead of the neck. Manufacturers claim this is more effective than traditional choke collars, as well as being  kinder and gentler to the dog.

Electronic collar devices

- Tracking collars

Use various technologies to send a signal from the dogs collar to a hand held device that homes in on the dog – should be ideal if the dog is lost – or has zoomed off on walkies. In the USA, The American Kennel Club (1) works in collaboration with the Positioning Animals Worldwide Company who makes the Spotlight GPS Pet Locator. There are a variety of other products to choose from, from cheaper devices that use radio frequencies but the range will be more limited so not as useful. Not surprisingly none of these products are cheap. We’ve seen them from $80 / £50 with a range of 400 feet / 122 metres, around $200-$250 plus $8-15 monthly service fees for the Spotlight device, or more for other GPS tracking systems. No doubt worth a go to try to buy peace of mind, but also all devices attached to collars will remain on the collar if using a safety snap-open collar. Nothing, as they say, is perfect.

- ‘Anti Bark’ collars

We do not think these are suitable for home use at all – and they are illegal in many Australian states. The ASPCA does not generally endorse their use and states the use of collars on young dogs can traumatise (2). Training is a more humane option. Persistent barking is a behavioural issue – resources from the ASPCA may help (3) and a good training expert.

Dog Teeth Cleaning

Teeth brushing

This should be done 1 – 2 times weekly and must use a soft toothbrush. Many stores sell dog rubber teethbrushes. Do not use human toothpaste. Do buy dog toothpaste - ask your vet for suitable brands. Dogs need specialised tooth paste to break down plaque. One other tip, from the ASPCA (4) is to use of piece of nylon tights (USA: pantyhose) stretched over your fingers – although we think for dogs who are less in favour of having their teeth brushed, a rubber toothbrush could be safer for your fingers? Whatever you use, use gentle circular motions, with the word gently key here.

‘Dental’ dog food/drink products

Claim to clean the dog’s teeth by using the action of dry foods rubbing against the teeth or as and additive for water. Should not be used a substitute for teeth cleaning. These products range from sticks and chews & water additives to complete diets. See ‘Useful Information’ for a link to list of products approved by the USA’s Vetinary Oral Health Council (5). Their ‘Seal of Approval Scheme’ is endorsed by the British Vetinary Dental Association (6) and the European Vetinary Dental Association (7).

(copyright Jenny Rollo)

Pooper-scooper dispensers for your belt

Around a while, they clip onto your belt and hold poop-scoop bags so that you can more or less deal with the operation hands free, without having to handle the doc lead in one hand whilst trying to grovel through your pockets with the other as people look on in the high street… Poop scoop bags now come in ‘antibacterial’ and you can also get packs of antibacterial wipes for you hands.

Visibility aids

There are a million cute dog coats and ‘jumpers’ out there but we like the idea of fluorescent dog coats / vests. They act just like cyclists day-glo jackets – they make the dog visible for traffic and people. You can also buy battery powered lights that clip onto leads or you for walking in the dark. There are also collars that reflect light and/or have battery powered lights built in – and some come in the new safety release designs.

Buyonacy aids

We just had to quickly mention these: did you know you can even buy a lifejacket for your dog these days? Brilliant safety idea for anyone taking to the water!

Dog car harnesses

Aim  to stop the dog cavorting about whilst you’re trying to drive, prevent it from doing the classic hanging the head out of the window (not good in traffic) and act as a doggie-seat belt in accidents. The UK’s RAC make on and claim it lessens the chance of the dog hitting the windscreen or the driver/passengers in an accident. Some types of anti choke harnesses double up as car harnesses.

Anti stress

You can now get products for dogs (and other animals) that you give orally to calm them down – when travelling to the vets, during firework season, when moving home… There are homeopathic drops for oral administration & coats which use body pressure points to help calm anxious and frightened dogs.

The Association of British Vetinary Acupuncturists also lists stress-related conditions as one of those treatable by its members (8).

There is also a German Veterinary Acupuncture Society e.V. (9) and the Samenwerkende Nederlandse Vetinaire Acupncturisten for Dutch dog lovers (10). For the rest of Europe, The International Veterinary Acupuncture Society may be able to help (11).

In the USA, the American Academy of Vetinary Acupucnture website has a search facility to find a vetinary acupuncturist (12), or the American Holistic vetinary Medical Association may be able to help (13).

In Canada, there is the Association of Vetinary Acupuncurists of Canada (14).

Website links to all of these organisations is at the end of the page. (Please note, we do not have any agreement with / do not receive any payment to advertise any of these societies and also unfortuanely cannot give any reviews of their services, we simply provide their details for information and hope you find them useful!)

Grooming products

There are far too many products to list individually – so here’s just a taster of some of ideas you might like:

Anti-tangle sprays – for dogs with longer hairs – spray before grooming

Anti-shedding shampoos – to minimise moulting &  keep the coat healthy

Tick ‘pickers’ – plastic tools to remove ticks. Why? Because ticks bury their jaws into skin and then ‘lock on’, remaining in place to suck the animals blood. Simply taking hold of a tick and ppulling it out is a no no – parts of the tics jaws and head can remain embedded in the skin, leading to nasty infections. The pickers aim to safely remove all of the tick, after which the area should be cleaned with disinfection. Tics shouldn’t be left to ‘drop off naturally ‘ – they carry bacteria and can therefore cause infections. If you can’t handle the gross factor, take your dog to the vet and have them do it while you look away. Your vet can also sell you tic repellent spray which you can use to prevent them.

Tea tree cream – help soothe itchy skin conditions (if you vet gives it the thumbs up)

Posted by Norma De Bloom

Photo Credits – please note these are copyright but you can contact the artists using the links:

Dog in anti choke harness http://www.sxc.hu/profile/clix Saftey release collars http://www.sxc.hu/profile/verzerk Old style colllar on fence http://www.sxc.hu/profile/bethan No founling – (copyright Jenny Rollo) http://www.sxc.hu/profile/buzzybee Dog swimming with lifejacket http://www.sxc.hu/profile/superelvis

Useful information:

1. American Kennel Club. Spotlight Is Here. [online] American Kennel Club.

http://www.akccar.org/spotlight/

2. ASPCA. Bark Collars. [online]. ASPCA.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/ask-the-expert/ask-the-expert-dog-and-cat-behavior/bark-control-collars.html

3. ASPCA. Barking. [online]. ASPCA.

http://www.aspcabehavior.org/articles/41/Barking.aspx

4. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. General Dog Care. [online]. ASPCA.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/dog-care-general.html

5. Vetinary Oral Health Council. Products Currently Awarded the VOHC Seal. [online] VOHC.

http://www.vohc.org/accepted_products.htm

6. British Vetinary Dental Association. Association.

http://www.bvda.co.uk/

7. European Vetinary Dental Association

http://www.evds.info/

8. Association of British Vetinary Acupuncturists. Treatable conditions. [online]. ABVA.

http://www.abva.co.uk/conditions2.asp?cid=1

9. German Veterinary Acupuncture Society e.V. (GERVAS)

http://www.gervas.org/

10. Samenwerkende Nederlandse Vetinaire Acupncturisten

http://www.acupunctuurbijdieren.nl/

11. The International Veterinary Acupuncture Society.

http://www.ivas.org/

12. American Holistic Vetinary Medical Association

http://www.ahvma.org/

13. American Academy of Vetinary Acupucnture

http://www.aava.org/

14. Association of Vetinary Acupuncurists of Canada

http://www.avac.ca/site-eng.html

For ‘advanced users’, here’s a few quick considerations on some of the latest gadgets and gizmos:

Cat Collars – new snap opens designs

Although still a everyday product in pet supply stores, cat care organisations (1) advise traditional collars can be dangerous. Collars featuring elastic straps can stretch and move to under the cat’s ‘armpit’ or around the jaw, causing injury. New safety release designs are available – plastic ‘snap open’ fastenings that do just that if the collar becomes caught on anything. Bells and tags on collars are also not a great idea – they can become caught on objects, or the cat can get its claws stuck in them. You can now buy collars that have your contact details printed into the collar, and any instructions (e.g. “Special Diet Do Not Feed”, etc). All collars must be free of sharp edges, anything sharp that could becomes dislodged, with good quality stitching.

Synthetic Feline Pheromones

We have to admit it, initially, sounds like a load of old marketing – pheromones bring to mind dodgy ‘perfumes’ designed to turn us all into ‘love gods’ & ‘goddesses’.- but your local vet may indeed recommend one of these products!

Synthetic Feline Pheromone diffusers: these look more like a ‘plug in’ style air freshener. The diffused liquid should be odourless & undetectable to all except Monsieur or Madame Moggie. It’s designed to mimic naturally occurring facial pheromones, the chemical ‘scents’ cats use to denote their territory with. The idea is to help your kitty relax in now very familiar-feeling surroundings.  Cats, believe it or not, can suffer from stress in some situations – in a multi-cat household, when travelling in a carrier box, when moving into a new home or even if you’re moving furniture around redecorating (basic motto: familiar is good, unfamiliar not so good).

Synthetic Feline Pheromone sprays: again, not so much ‘Eau De Tom Cat’ as ‘Oh ok, my house is cool now’. Can be used to spray furniture aiming to deter urine marking, scratching; to make travelling more comfortable and to ‘anoint’ the floor of a cattery or friend’s house that kitty will be staying in while you are on holidays.

[We personally rate these products, as our cat clearly becomes more relaxed when the diffuser device is plugged in. When we first tried it, the effect was fairly comical. Within 3 days, as our cat went from “Oh my gosh, new house, quick, hide under the sofa” to lying helpfully in the bedroom doorway, stretched out as though on a beach in a nice Hawaiian shirt and aviator shades].

Synthetic Feline Pheromone collars – claim to help keep cats calm but check out the collar overall design carefully – the good news is, we have seen these for sale online with saftey release designs. Some brands also claim to have been clinically proven to calm behaviour, like the sprays and diffusers.

Cat brushes

The Feline Advisory Bureau advises brushing longhaired cats daily and shorthaireds once a week. For longhaired cats, its vital to avoid tangled fur become too matted – as this means a trip to the vet to have the fur removed. It may also help ‘shedding’, where you’ll find your home covered in long hairs as the cat sheds old hair! We also suggest upgrading to a powerful vacuum for your home to maintain good hygiene and from experience of being temporarily knee deep in cat hair when our old vacuum couldn’t cope and our kitty was having none of teh dreaded brushie, not even the nice softie one wiv added treats. (That’s what happens if you don’t get them used to it while they’re young kittys, we’re guessing – brush-o-phobia rears its head in later life ?) Check back soon for a whole section of the progress on that one!

Kitty Toys

There seems to have been an explosion in cat toys since we were young cat peeps.

• Boingy string toys – feature a ‘wand’ for you to hold, a length of elastic and something for the cat to chase. Get one with soft elastic that won’t snap back and hurt your kitty, and watch out for small bits that kitty could pose a choking risk – cats may destroy their ‘catch’ over time. [We know a happy cat who regularly trashes his toys].

• Catnip toys – (Nepeta cataria) herb contains aromatic oil nepetalactone which cats react to for several minutes – often looking like they’re in cat heaven, rolling blissfully around.

-          Not all cats respond, some seem to be genetically predisposed immune to effects

-          Some cats may exhibit aggressive behaviour = not a good toy for them (2)

• Cat Valerian toys – pieces of dried root of this herb act as a ‘nervine’ for cats  and may help cats to relax. Now marketed often alongside more traditional catnip toys.

• Cat Tunnels – fabric tubes held open by rings, which make excellent places for cats to hide in, ‘hunt’ the boing string toys in, hang out in and, um, roll around in. They come in crinkly, plush, felt, with or without mobiles, with or without a hole to ‘hunt’ through, hidden ‘rustling’ foils…

• Automatic toys

Various battery powered designs: generally featuring moving string and/or something for kitty to catch. Check for saftey, and do not leave unattended – could be popular but not a   ‘kitty babysitter’!

Wind-up or battery powered  ‘mousies’: again good fun but beware of chewing (never leave unattended) – or anywhere you can trip over, especialy first thing in the morning (from our experience…)

• Cat gyms – usually multi-level and covered in carpet fabric or similar, can feature sisal (rope sometimes used in cat scratching posts). Aim to encourage exercise, play and possibly non-destructive scratching. Literally hundreds of designs out there.

• Laser toys – you hold and move it around to spin a laser light around for kitties to chase. Most products carry warnings to not shine directly in the eyes as this can cause permanent damage. Hmm.

One top tip:

Don’t leave your cat unattended with anything with a string on it in case a playful cat becomes painfully/dangerously tangled up in it while you’re out and can’t rescue them. Cat proof your home to avoid anything similarly dangly. While this may not apply to all cats, probably best to take no chances!

Cat beds

Now in a mind boggling array of designs – cat sofas, cat ‘sleeping bag’ style, triangular foam designs… Keep clean by vacuuming and washing to guard against parasites. One way to thin about it is you would always want a clean bed yourself, his or her cat bed should also always be kept clean.

IMPORTANT: yep, you guessed it – this is the bit where we respectfully advise:

No information here can ever be a substitute for vetinary advice – all animal health and living needs issues should be taken to the vet. We regret we therefore cannot answer any individual queries on cat care.

Posted by Joe De Bloom

Photo Credits

White cat http://www.sxc.hu/profile/cynthiab Rolling happy cat! http://www.sxc.hu/profile/gabrielsya Kitten with orange mousie http://www.sxc.hu/profile/pascal79

Useful info:

1. Feline Advisory Bureau. Cats and Collars. [online] Feline Advisory Bureau.

http://www.fabcats.org/owners/safety/collars/info.html

2. Feline Advisory Bureau. What Is Catnip? [online] Feline Advisory Bureau

http://www.fabcats.org/behaviour/other/catnip.html

VERY IMPORTANT: This article is for general educational purposes only – NO information here can ever be used a substitute for professional vetinary advice! PLEASE ASK YOUR VET FOR ABOUT YOUR RABBIT’S HEALTHCARE AND LIVING NEEDS. We therefore respectfully advise we are unable to answer any questions on animal care.

Mini houses

Within the rabbit’s home, you can place mini rabbit ‘houses’ made of wood or plastic, to give them somewhere that feels secure to sleep in. Take care to make sure it’s big enough – many products are sold for ‘small animals’ – with rabbits, obviously at the larger end of the scale.

Anti flystrike products

Flystrike is a horrible condition where summer time flies lay eggs around the rabbits bottom, which hatch in hours into maggots. The maggots then feed by literally eating into the skin on the poor rabbit and release disease causing toxins. Flystrike is a particular problem for rabbits which needs immediate vetinary attention, as afflicted rabbits can become very ill and even die.

Disinfectant cleaning sprays: Specially designed rabbit-safe sprays are available for when you’re doing the weekly hutch/house cleaning. These aim to prevent bacterial & viral infections and for rabbits, check they also guard against flystrike.

Fly repellants : Hang a fly strip near the hutch and use a pet-safe fly repellent spray. Ask your vet to recommend one of the anti flystrike products for the rabbit – there are natural oil products, and chemical based products which claim to protect the rabbits bottom area against the flies.

Rabbit toys

You can now buy many toys – aim to keep your rabbit’s mind stimulated and his teeth in good shape. There are tiny rabbit ‘tents’, connecting tunnels, and bunny beds a little bit like mini-hooded-dog beds for them to play in. Lots of toys feature chewing, which is good for the rabbit, as they need to gnaw down their teeth to avoid severe dental problems. Some gnawing toys have spaces you can hide tasty rabbit treats in, again to keep them mentally stimulated. Tunnels made of plastic or wood ‘logs’ can also help with boredom and give them somewhere to behave more naturally in. Check the wood ones are suitable for chewing, as this potential double feature is too good to miss if you’re going to spend all that money on the first place.

Thinking about getting a rabbit or just got one? Essential starter items

If you’re thinking about getting a rabbit, there are some great fact sheets on keeping rabbits that we really advise you check out:-

The UK’s RSPCA on rabbit care at http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=RabbitsPetCare

The USA’s ASPCA on rabbit care at:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/general-rabbit-care.html

Basic items that need to be organised for rabbit care include:

• A good vet for vaccinations, neutering, advice and all healthcare needs
• A carrier for trips to the vet, moving home, etc.
• A nice, BIG weatherproof home off the ground, out of direct sunlight – and it should be indoors, according to the ASPCA. Make sure it’s BIG – rabbits require space and beware of smaller houses or hutches sold in some pets stores. It’s probably going to be costly, but hey, that’s rabbits for you!
• Each bunny needs a separate sleeping space
• Clean wood shavings on the floor
• Soft, special hay sold for small animal hay (so it doesn’t poke delicate eyes or otherwise hurt the rabbit)
• A drip-feed water bottle or metal or ceramic water bowl – they need to be able to drink fresh clean water anytime
• Some where grassy and enclosed to run every day (a ‘rabbit run’). We’re talking metres here, not a square foot or so that they will fit into – they really need to be able to exercise. Sink it into the ground, as they will burrow their way out otherwise! Needs to also be safe from other animals or birds getting in to eat the rabbit.
• Daily food – see factsheets for suitable foods
• A ‘gnawing block’ for healthy teeth – this one you can’t skip, their teeth carry own growing otherwise
• A digging box to encourage natural behaviour
• A purpose designed rabbit brush fore long haired rabbits, to brush them daily
• ‘Helpers’ for you – to look after the rabbit if you are on holiday or can’t take care of him or her for any other reason
• Humans or other rabbits to be with every day – they are not solitary animals and need company

The RSPCA also rehomes small animals to suitable homes, having given them vetinary checks to ensure they’re happy and healthy – a good way to welcome a furry friend to your home.

Posted by Norma & Joe De Bloom

Photo Credits

Top rabbit (named Snuffle) http://www.sxc.hu/profile/marnixbras Fly http://www.sxc.hu/profile/juliajorn

UK animal welfare charity the RSPCA (1) have a fact sheet giving loads of useful advice on dog care. The following information echoes some of their tips on how to organise yourself product & service wise:

• A good vet – for micro-chipping, vaccinations, neutering, advice and treatment for illness/injury
• Pet health insurance (vet’s bills can sometimes be extremely expensive, depending on the condition)
• A bowl for always having fresh, clean water
• Worming products – ask your vet for suitable brands
• Flea control products – again, ask the vet
• Good quality dog food
• A correctly fitted dog lead
• Fencing for your garden to prevent the dog escaping
• A pooper-scooper device & plastic bags to clear up dog mess when out walking
• A dog brush, for daily brushing, especially for long hairs
• Teeth cleaning products (but they still need regular dental check ups at the vet)
• A bed of some description and their own blanket
• ‘Helpers’ for you – a good kennel or dog sitter for when you are away on holiday or unable to provide companionship (dogs need plenty of company)
• A good dog trainer – dogs need caring, expert training to allow harmony between them, other dogs, other animals, and humans

More Products

For other information we’ve put together for this site on buying the best collars for your dog, there is a section on the newer designs in Cool Products – Dogs & Cats. Click on it on the right hand side to read about the new, kinder design dog collars to stop dogs pulling, safety release collars and tracking collars in case your dog becomes lost.

There’s also a round up of some useful products to make life better for you and your pooch – pooper scooper bags, visibility aids, buoyancy aids for nautical dogs, anti stress products & vetinary acupuncture, some useful grooming products, car safety,  and teeth cleaning

Dog Licences & ‘Dangerous Dog’ Laws

Don’t forget: get a dog licence if your country requires one. In the USA, the ASPCA advises dog licences should be attached to collars.  In the USA, many many states require one by law. The ASPCA website has an incredible detailed list of topics on many aspects of dog behaviour, care and training (2). There are also various different “dangerous dog laws” from state to state, we strongly recommend seeking professional advice if these are of concern to you. In Canada, the situation is similar. In both countries, you are strongly advised to check with local authorities on these laws . For Canada, you may find a not for profit organisation, the Dog legislation Council of Canada helpful (3). Another source of good advice is of course the vet.

Dog licences were legally abandoned in England, Scotland & Wales in 1987 but were still required by law for every single dog in Northern Ireland at the time of writing (cost £5 or £2.50 for owners aged 65 and over). Be aware of the 1991 Dangerous Dogs Act, covering all the UK. This law banned breeding or selling certain types of dog. It also placed legally enforceable restrictions on owners. At the time of writing, it appears to cover pit bull terriers, Japanese Tosas, the Dogo Argentinos, and the Fila Brasileiros and cross-breeds of them. However, the wording also stated “any type of dog appearing to him [the secretary of state] to be bred for fighting” or any dog “dangerously out of control in a public place”.  Anyone interested in this law is strongly advised to seek professional advice for its actual correct interpretation.

Some breed owners may find their dog is covered by laws

IMPORTANT: yep, you guessed it – this is the bit where we respectfully advise:

No information here can ever be a substitute for professional vetinary or legal advice – all animal health issues should be taken to the vet, all legal queries to a lawyer. We regret we therefore cannot answer any individual queries on dog care or as mentioned above, any laws relating to dogs.Thank you.

Posted by Norma De Bloom

Photo Credits – aren’t the dogs gorgeous?

First dog on page http://www.sxc.hu/profile/vancanjay Application form http://www.sxc.hu/profile/EyeLens Sleepy dog http://www.sxc.hu/profile/bhchrist

Useful factsheets

1. RSPCA. Pet care- Dogs. [online]. RSPCA.

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=DogsPetCare

2. ASPCA. Virtual Pet Behaviourist. [online]. ASPCA

http://www.aspcabehavior.org/search.aspx?petCat=1&mode=all&sort=title&dir=ASC

3. Dog Legislation Council of Canada.

http://www.doglegislationcouncilcanada.org/aboutus.html

Hi - ok, here's mah list of demands to start with...

There are countless cat care products on sale. If you’re contemplating a kitty in your life, or have just welcome one to your home, a starter list of essentials might help you decide what to buy. The UK based charity, Cats Protection League has been caring for kitties since 1927 and has informative help sheets on many aspects of cat care at their website (1). The following list echoes some of their tips for organising basic products & services:

• A good vet! – for micro-chipping, vaccinations, neutering, advice & treating illness- injury
• Flea control products – ask your vet for a suitable brand
• Worming products – again ask your vet for a suitable brand
• Dry cat food/ special ‘dental cleaning’ dry cat treats to maintain oral hygiene
• Things to play with for exercise and stimulation – especially important for indoor kitties
• A nice comfy ‘bed’ of some description
• A bowl of clean fresh water at all times
• Cat food !
• A suitable brush – to brush longhairs daily, to avoid matting fur, which would mean a trip to the vet, for shorthairs, to be used once weekly
• Pet Care Insurance – to provide help with vets bills (which can sometimes be extremely expensive depending on the condition)
• A scratching post could be “useful” – we recommend these 100% to encourage your kitty to keep their claws in good shape without adopting the sofa as the primary work-out site. This advice especially holds for kittens & younger moggies, a.k.a. “cute furry cross-shredders”.

Licences

Don’t forget a cat licence! At the time of writing there was no legal requirement to obtain a licence for owning a cat in the UK. In the USA and Canada, you are strongly advised to check with your local authority, as in some locations, it is 100% a legal requirement to obtain a proper licence for owning a cat.

Ur honor, I owns them, they jus' lives heer 'cos I can't do teh tins

More Products

For other information we’ve put together on cat products you might like, click on Cool Products – Dogs & Cats on the right. In this section there is a round up of some of the newer products on the market.  Information includes choosing a cat collar, synthetic pheromone sprays, brushes, toys and beds, with loads of useful online resources  at the end of the page.

IMPORTANT: yep, you guessed it – this is the bit where we respectfully advise:

None of this article is intended as nor can be used as a substitute for professional vetinary or legal advice. All animal health issues should be taken to the vet. We regret we therefore cannot answer any individual queries on cat care or relevant laws.

Posted by Norma De Bloom

Phoot Credits

‘Cat in the bag’ http://www.sxc.hu/profile/straymuse Application form http://www.sxc.hu/profile/EyeLens Staring cat http://www.sxc.hu/profile/NLTeddy

Useful fact sheet you may like to check out:

1.Cat’s protection League. Caring for your cat. Cat’s Protection League.

http://www.cats.org.uk/catcare/leaflets/EG03-Caringforyourcat.pdf

VERY IMPORTANT: This article is for general educational purposes only – NO information here can ever be used a substitute for professional vetinary advice! PLEASE ASK YOUR VET FOR ABOUT YOUR HAMSTER’S HEALTHCARE AND LIVING NEEDS. We therefore respectfully advise we are unable to answer any questions on animal care.

Beds & Nests

Hamsters have instincts to burrow, chew and hide away from sight – yes, you guessed it, you can now buy them specially designed little hamster ‘nests’. These aim to allow them to fulfil their instincts and feel secure. (A side effect is even more instant super-cuteness as well). There are also little hamster ‘houses’, in wood or plastic designs for them to hide away in. They like to sleep where no-one can see them, usually burrowing so they will need suitable material inside the nests/ ‘houses’ (see ‘new owners’ below).

There’ also mini-sleeping-bag type beds, which they can snuggle into – not so much on the chewing front but a tick for the hiding urge.

Hamster Toys

There are toys you can buy which could be beneficial for both their teeth and to stop them getting bored. Mental stimulation is important! Toys can give them something safe to chew on, and if they feature ‘hidden’ (hamster safe) foods inside, they can be kept occupied as they try to prize it out. There are special hamster friendly toys and a scaled down version of a dog-toy design for small animals, made of rubber, which again you stuff with tasty hamster snacks.

Exercise

As mentioned below in the ‘new owners’ section, exercise is important. You can buy wheels, but they should be solid not open runged to stop little feet and tails getting caught. There are also plastic tunnel designs which attach to hamster homes to provide exercise and mental stimulation.

Treats

There are plenty of hamster treats products to supplement their diet in addition to their regular hamster mix food. (Only buy products designed for hamsters – all small animals need specialist feeding and products aren’t always ‘interchangeable’ between species).

Thinking of getting a hamster or just got one? Basic products/ services

The information here echoes the UK’s RSPCA and USA’s ASPCA tips on some of the things new hamster owners need to organise for their pet. The RSPCA also rehomes small animals to suitable homes, having given them vetinary checks to ensure they’re happy and healthy – a good way to welcome a furry friend to your home.

• A good vet – for all advice and healthcare needs
• A large home, indoors in a warm place, not in direct sunlight – somewhere quiet in the daytime (they’re more night animals and need to sleep in the day)
• A drip-feed bottle for water – they always need to able to drink clean, fresh water
• A nesting box in their home – they need to burrow so they can’t be seen, and they need to sleep there and stash food away there (natural behaviour)
• Clean sawdust on the floor of their home
• Soft hay sold especially for small animals (so it won’t poke delicate eyes or otherwise hurt them)
• Clean white kitchen paper so they can make their bed with it – not cotton wool, not newspaper
• An exercise wheel – but not with open rungs, should be solid – which is securely fixed to the inside wall of their home
• Toys for stimulation – cardboard tubes, wooden cotton reels
• A ‘gnawing block’ made of hardwood to help keep their teeth healthy
• Daily food and home tidying, full cleaning once a week
• A special brush designed for hamsters – to brush them daily (especially important for longhaired hamsters)
• ‘Helpers’ for you – someone to take care of the hamster if you are on holiday or unable to do so for any reason

Posted by Joe De Bloom

Photo Credits

Hamster close-up http://www.sxc.hu/profile/red2000

Useful facts sheets

The UK’s RSPCA has hamster care fact sheets at

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=SmallAnimalsCare&marker=1&articleId=1154077755713

They also rehome small animals to suitable homes in the UK.

The USA’s ASPCA has hamster care fact sheets at

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/hamster-care.html.

VERY IMPORTANT: This article is for general educational purposes only – NO information here can ever be used a substitute for professional vetinary advice! PLEASE ASK YOUR VET FOR ABOUT YOUR GUINEA PIG’S HEALTHCARE AND LIVING NEEDS. We therefore respectfully advise we are unable to answer any questions on animal care.

Guinea Pig Carriers

Range from the plain cardboard variety at the lower end of the budget range, up to fancy specialist carriers in funky fabric and foam or plastic. Use them to take your pet to the vets or when moving house, etc.

Toys & Stimulation

You can now buy toys which you stuff with special guinea pig treats & suitable foodstuffs, which makes the guinea pig work his or her ingenuity to get the food out. This may help prevent boredom. Many other toy designs feature ‘gnawing’ or ‘chewing’, as this is natural behaviour. Your vet or guniea pig rescue organisations have tips on which products are ok to give your guinea pig. There are ‘warren runs’ you can use outdoors to allow them to hop about in the fresh air and enjoy a simulation of a natural burrow.  Secure safe space to run in daily is an absolute must. One product to avoid are ‘exercise balls’ and ‘exercise wheels’ – these are not safe for guinea pigs. See Useful Resources for expert opinions.

Treats

In addition to regular guinea pig food mixes, treats can provide a nice variety to prevent boredom.! (Only buy food products designed for guinea pigs – all small animals need specialist feeding and products aren’t always ‘interchangeable’ between species). 

Hutch cleaning sprays

Come in various guises, with disinfectant properties but must be safe for the animals. Some are available in ‘natural’ product ranges too.

Beds & ‘nests’

Days were when guinea pigs had some nice fluffy type bedding to snooze in and that was that. These days, you can buy guinea pig ‘nests’:  round balls with a small hole in so your guinea pig can be cosy inside the ‘nest’. Small animals have instincts to hide and, well, nest (that’s why they do all that chewing) and these could well help them fulfil those instincts.   Guinea pigs also have an array of little ‘houses’ you can buy for them to hide and snuggle in, in natural wood or plastic designs.  We have to admit these all look extremely cute. Check nothing could hurt your pet – for example,  make sure they can’t chew something that would then create a  sharp bit that could injure their eyes or skin.

For those thinking of getting a guinea pig or newer owners:

The following advice echoes some of the tips of animal charities on guinea pig care. This can help you know what you must organise for you new pet:  what basics guinea pigs need to keep them happy and healthy. If you are looking for guinea pig,  see the Useful Resources section for organisations worldwide that rehome rescued guinea pigs: plenty worldwide need a loving home.

• A good vet who knows their guinea pigs – for neutering if there’s a male and female living together, taking care of nails and teeth; advice and of course treating any illness / injury. Check they are familiar with working with guinea pigs as some vetinary medications are unsuitable for them.
  
• A drip-feed water bottle – they need to always be able to have a drink of fresh water
• A spacious  cage to live in – they will probably choose one side for sleeping in and one side for everything else. Put the hutch off the ground, (e.g. – on a table) so they feel secure. The ASPCA suggests a minimum of four square feet of hutch space per guinea pig but ideally more – other guinea pig experts  state at least 7.5 square feet is needed for one guinea pig and that they need to live indoors only (1,2)
• Places for them hide in the hutch and toys – things to hide in and play with for mental stimulation
• Fresh bedding daily
• Timothy Hay – but see Useful Resources for which hay to give pregnant moms and their young babies (Cavy Spirit’s home  page has information)
• A large “secure enclosure”  to run around in every day – they 100% must excercise outside the cage to prevent health problems
• A ‘gnawing block’ to help keep teeth healthy
• Food twice daily (see Useful Resources for advice on what to feed)
• Company – they like other guinea pigs and may be unhappy on their own

We would also suggest pet healthcare insurance if you can get it to cover this small pet, to help you afford vets bills – these can be expensive (and have an uncanny ability to arrive when you “least want them”! ).

Posted by Norma De Bloom

Photo Credits

Guinea pig close-up http://www.sxc.hu/profile/therysma

Useful facts sheets

1. Guinea Lynx - has a lot of specific information and facts sheets at

http://www.guinealynx.info/

2. Cavy Spirit guinea pig rescue organisation has information at two sites, including info on runs, housing, toys and health:

http://www.cavyspirit.com

http://www.guineapigcages.com

The UK’s RSPCA has fact sheets on caring for guinea pigs at

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=SmallAnimalsCare&marker=1&articleId=1154077755508

The USA’s ASPCA has fact sheets at

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/guinea-pig-care.html

Resources for adoption of rescued guinea pigs- please think carefully about caring properly for one beforehand:

Canada Rescue and Adoption

http://www.pgaa.com/canada.html

(USA) Cavy Spirit Guinea Pig rescue

http://www.cavyspirit.com/

(UK) Guinea Pig Rehome

http://www.guineapigrehome.org.uk/

(UK) Guinea Pig Rescue

http://www.guineapigrescue.co.uk/index.htm

Humane Society of Canada

http://www.humanesociety.com/pets/shelters.html

(USA) Petfinder

http://www.petfinder.com/pet-adoption

(UK) RSPCA

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=rehoming

Spain’s Animal Adoption Network

http://www.spanimal.org/

(France) Sauver Proteger Aimer – Refuges Animaux

http://refuges.animaux.ws/

(Elsewhere) World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA)

http://www.wspa.org.uk/members/findmember/Default.aspx

Recent scientific interest in plastic and human health has prompted some pet care bloggers to suggest it’s safest to ditch plastic food bowls in favour of ceramic or stainless steel bowls.

There are two reasons:

a) Basic Hygiene

Food and water bowls should always be cleaned daily (we think best simply once your pet has finished its food from the bowl). Plastic bowls are porous, meaning they absorb materials at a microscopic level. This may make them harder to rid of bacteria by cleaning. Just in the same way food hygiene rules apply for people, they do for pets to avoid gastro-intestinal, skin and other problems caused by food contaminated with unhealthy bacteria.

b) Controversy over Bisephanol A

Bisephanol A is a chemical used to make a type of hard, transparent plastic called polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is used in the manufacture of many plastic food storage and consumption items – reusable water bottles and baby bottles, plastic tableware, plastic food storage containers, etc. It is also found in epoxy compounds used to line tin cans. (1). Questions arose in recent years as to whether the chemical could migrate into foods and whether this posed any risk to human health. International opinion is currently sharply divided on the issue.

Canadian authorities are focusing efforts to protect newborn babies and infants less than 18 months. They are drafting legislation to “ban the importation, sale and advertising of polycarbonate baby bottles” (2). Bisephanol A was found to “harm fish and aquatic organisms over time” at low levels (3) . Its use in canned foods/drinks is also to be regulated.

The Americans are still evaluating evidence. The FDA issued a message for consumers 31/08/2009 stating close liason with the Canadian authorities but for now that “exposure levels to food contact materials, including for infants and children, are below those that may cause health effects”. Their position does indicate however they will continue to review evidence as it becomes available (4).

The Europeans do not appear to be taking any action to further regulate or ban Bisephanol A or polycarbon plastic (5).

If concerned, pet owners can buy ceramic or stainless steel feeding/ water bowls. Some pet supplies retailers are realising consumers want Bisephanol A free pet products and using the phrase “BPA free” in marketing.

IMPORTANT: of course no information from the internet can ever be a substitute for advice from your vetinarian on any aspect of animal health. The opinions expressed here are for broad educational purposes only.

Sorry to our furry friends: unfortunately, if there’s a health concern, it does mean getting into the nasty carrier box and going to see the nasty man or lady with the funny smelling gloves!!

Posted by Norma De Bloom

Photo Credits

Dog with blue bowl http://www.sxc.hu/profile/hcmlopes Stainless steel bowls http://www.sxc.hu/profile/heltje

References

1. Health Canada.  (2008). Bisephanol A Fact Sheet. . [online]. Government of Canada. Available at:

http://www.chemicalsubstanceschimiques.gc.ca/challenge-defi/bisphenol-a_fs-fr_e.html

2. Health Canada.  (2008) Government of Canada Takes Action on Another Chemical of Concern: Bisphenol A. [online]. Government of Canada. Available at:

http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/ahc-asc/media/nr-cp/_2008/2008_167-eng.php

3. Health Canada.  (2008) Government of Canada Protects Families With Bisphenol A Regulations. [online]. Government of Canada. Available at:

http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/ahc-asc/media/nr-cp/_2008/2008_167-eng.php

4. FDA.  (2009). Bisphenol A (BPA) Message for Consumers. [online]. Department of Health and Human Services. Available at:

http://www.fda.gov/NewsEvents/PublicHealthFocus/ucm064437.htm

5. Scientific Committee on Food (2002). Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Food on Bisphenol A. [online]. European Commission: Health & Consumer Protection Directorate-General. Available at: http://ec.europa.eu/food/fs/sc/scf/out128_en.pdf

Cute, maybe with a starter-pack thrown in, but where has the puppy in the pet store come from?

OK, so this isn’t exactly about products, but for dogs in particular, its’ so important we just couldn’t miss it out. Beware of puppy mills. When you go to buy a book, you got a bookstore, when you buy shoes, you go to a shoe shop, and so on…. The amazing thing is, dog charities on both sides of the Atlantic advise against buying dogs by just walking into a pet store and picking out your favourite pup because of the likelihood it will have come from a puppy mill . These are breeding facilities which literally churn out puppies for profit. Female dogs are used to produce litter after litter, without adequate recovery time. Puppies are sold from just 8 weeks old to pet stores, or through adverts, without having been properly socialised – or checked for illness. Puppy mill puppies are known to have higher rates of sickness and hereditary defects. None of the dogs involved usually receive proper care, attention or socialisation (1).

For those in the states, the ASPCA advises not to buy from a pet store unless you can actually meet the dog’s mother (1). For those in the UK, the Breeding and Sale of Dogs Act should put a stop to the puppy mills activities, stipulating only one litter per year and mandatory vetinary inspections for breeder’s facilities. However, the UK Kennel Club issues the following cautions which indicate the law is, er, perhaps not entirely effective, shall we say (2). They advise never to purchase a dog from a pet shop as they are often supplied by ‘dealers’, who are agents for puppy mills. They also advise never to buy a dog from “the back of a van at a motorway service station or from an airport car park, such as Heathrow, as this is how many dealers operate”. Advertisers selling multiple dog breeds may also (but not always) be ‘dealers’.

Rehoming a dog

Since this is a big problem for dogs, we think the time has never been better than to considering to adopt a dog from an animal rescue centre. People are sometimes put off the idea that a ‘rescue dog’ always comes with behavioural problems. This simply isn’t always the case and good centres these days offer behavioural profiles of their animals and work with potential adoptees to find a dog that will perfectly suit their lifestyle. In any event, there can never be a 100% guarantee of any dog’s temperament or behaviour. Another advantage is rescue dogs usually come fully vaccinated, neutered, microchipped and with full vetinary checks. So there should be more assurances of the dog’s state of health.

Another myth that can put people off dog adoption is thinking they won’t be able to rehome their favourite breed of dog because there won’t be any available! However, less well known than the big famous charities are those rescue organisations that specialise in by breed alongside the general centres. You may well find your ideal pooch, even if he or she is a ‘posh’ breed!

In the USA, try http://www.allaboutdogsandcats.com/Dogs/BreedRescue.html

For greyhounds worldwide, try http://www.greyhoundrescue.co.uk/World.htm

For other breeds in the UK, try http://www.ukdogrescue.com/breedrescuelistae.htm

Finally, it may be worth checking the website or calling the secretaries of specific breed enthusiast clubs. Sometimes even pedigree dogs need rehoming due to unforeseen circumstances and some clubs may be able to an enthusiastic owner with a needy dog. All of the breeds below and more will be waiting at a rescue centre or on the books of a club…

Posted by Norma & Joe De Bloom - wishing EVERY dog a happy home

Photo Credits

Top puppy (under title) http://www.sxc.hu/profile/biggirl90 Puppy with paws at bars http://www.sxc.hu/profile/sue_r_b Sleeping puppy on blue blanket http://www.sxc.hu/profile/jwestyp

Cocker spaniel puppy http://www.sxc.hu/profile/sofamonkez Shiba Inu puppy http://www.sxc.hu/profile/gentrinity Terrier cross puppy http://www.sxc.hu/profile/BeverlyLR White (Jack Russel cross?) dog looking over shoulder http://www.sxc.hu/profile/smcarli Black puppy http://www.sxc.hu/profile/just4you Baby bulldog kisses! http://www.sxc.hu/profile/coolza Minature  Greyhound baby http://www.sxc.hu/profile/swisschee Bichon frisee http://www.sxc.hu/profile/Brittyyy

Useful fact sheets

1. ASPCA. What Is A Puppy Mill. ASPCA.

http://www.aspca.org/fight-animal-cruelty/puppy-mills/what-is-a-puppy-mill.html

2. The Kennel Club. Puppy farms, puppy dealers and pet shops. [online] The Kennel Club.

http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/item/208